Babette's Feast: LudoBites Style

It may seem like I got my shopping cart and my dog and took up residence at LudoBites but no, I do have a separate residence. I stopped by on Tuesday night and ravenously scarfed down four amazing plates with a friend and happened to run into Will of FoodDigger.com. He told me that FoodDigger had arranged a chef's tasting menu on Wednesday, the night Top Chef Masters airs. I shamelessly tried to insert myself into the dinner like Cinderella's step-sisters' ungainly feet tried to squeeze themselves into the dainty glass slipper. No go.

But on Wednesday, an hour or so before the seating, I got the call, or rather the email from LudoBites, that I was going to the ball so I scrammed on over, bleary-eyed, work-worn (and wearing too tight Theory pants that haven't fit in about a year - but whatever) - I was going to eat LudoBites for FoodDigger tasting menu! And my pants are stretchy material! Eureka!

This is what we had, from the top.

Deconstruction of Bloody Mary. Was it Derrida who said, "we have deconstructed everything. Now, we're just playing with the pieces"? I think he meant that in a sombre sad way but this was fun, whimsical and an exciting way to kick off a meal. There were ice crystals, and little chunks of jello and a spicy kick to round off this treat. I was tickled red.


Tuna sashimi, sushi rice ice cream, sashimi togarashi. We all went crazy for the fried shallots. This ice cream had a gelatinous feel and the sauce was peppery like kochu-garu and sweet. It was lovely and light and packed with flavor.

The famous shrimps, sweet and sour, rosemary. Of course, we all ate it in one bite as instructed and it was again, a nice juicy mouthful.


King red salmon, smoked vinegar, watermelon, mint. Chef Ludo is at the top of the table instructing all to do the one-two step with these bites. Refreshing and elegant.

Cold Chorizo soup with cornichon paste. This was fascinating and the dish most cited as being the favorite of the night. It was served very cold and had an intense smoky sausagey essence. It brought to mind the taste of licking Dorito dust off your fingers. Clever, imaginative and thought provoking. The cornichon paste? I'd buy it if I could.

This was, for me, a shining star. The Foie Gras Tart, Lemon Paste, Mushrooms, Four Spices. The foie gras was sandwiched between a crisp and maple sugared crust and topped with thick slabs of mushrooms. This earthy, sweet savory combination is one I will have to have again. And it's now on the regular menu, so that's no empty threat.

Diver Scallop, Port, Creme Fraiche. This scallop is flawless and can do no wrong.

Halibut, Spiced Butter, Fresh Porcini, Tonnato Style, Lettuce. This could well have been my favorite dish of the night - along with a couple others. The fish was perfectly cooked and the wilted yet still fibrous texture of this thin lettuce was so ideally suited to it, you'd think they grew up together. This is something I could eat every day.

Duck, Almonds, Crispy Skin Puree, Tapenade, Turnips. This was another sweet and savory dish with the almonds tasting quite like Honey Smacks cereal. The duck was wonderfully fragrant.

Professor Ludo bringing out the cheese board and explaining the fruit chutney pairings.


Brillat- Savarin said a meal without a cheese course is like a beautiful woman without an eye. I guess I don't mind one eyed women so much, but I will now after these jams, purees and chutneys or whatever magical concoctions these were. They were nectars of the gods and the board was practically licked clean. I believe one of the chutneys was made of large square chunks of apricots and paired with the blue cheese. Another was made of pureed dates and teamed with a milder but lovely cheese. I can't recall the others because those two made such a powerful impression.

Panna Cotta, Caviar, Caramel. I think a meal without dessert is like a beautiful woman without a head. You can quote me on that. I have had many many many many many many glorious desserts in my day. You can ask my trousers and they will tell you, yes my seams have been taken to the breaking point and she just keeps asking for the dessert menu every time.

This is one of the most magnificent and straight yummy desserts I have ever had the joy of devouring to the last drop. Chef Ludo's wife, Kristine, describes it as milkduds with popcorn. It is something else. And now, it's on the regular menu so everyone can visit dessert heaven, not just the FoodDigger guests.

After the meal, we watched Top Chef Masters while Chef Ludo reacted and his wife serenely tapped his bon mots into twitterland. It was great fun.

Chef Ludo was self-deprecating of his accent and he was self-deprecating on behalf of Rick Bayless and his suspect Mexican origins, as well.

Marcel showed up. He's very delicately made which made me wonder all over again how Elan could have been permitted to win Top Chef after inciting the man-handling of this gentle white rapper. Is that conduct becoming of a Top Chef? No way, Jose. Neither is copying quesadilla dishes - yeah, I'm looking at you Ricky.

The end of an enchanted evening. This pumpkin needed to go home having had quite a time at the ball. A giant merci beaucoup to Krissy who was hustling, welcoming, clearing, serving, tweeting etc. and Chef Ludo who was cooking up a sandstorm, as well as FoodDigger for putting on the ritz. And yes, it seems nearly all food bloggers are Asians, as well as being lovely, interesting and quite funny. A memorable night for sure.